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French Vanilla Almond:
2 cups Soap Base
1/3 cups Ground Almonds
2 tablespoons Almond Oil
1/2 tablespoon Almond FO
1/2 tablespoon Vanilla FO


Green Tea:
2 cups opague Soap Base
2 tablespons Rice Flour
1/2 tablespoon Green Tea FO
1/2 tablespoon Jasmine FO
1 Tea Bag of Green Tea with Jasmine Flowers
Colors: 1 drop Blue and 6 drops Orange

Healing Skin Soap:
2 cups Soap Base
2 tablespoons Emu oil
3 drops each of Carrot Seed and Rose Otto Eo


Lavender/Rosemary/Aloe:
2 cup Opaque Soap Base
1 tablespoon Powdered Lavender Flowers
and Rosemary Leaves
1/2 teaspoon Lavender and Rosemary eo
2 tablespoons Coconut Oil

2 cups Clear soap Base
1/2 c Aloe Vera Gel


Lemon/Lime:
2 cups Clear Soap Base
1/2 teaspoon Each of Lemon and Lime EO

Lemon Orange Peel:
1 cup Clear Soap Base
1 teaspoon Orange/Mandarin
or Tangerine EO

1 cup Opaque Soap Base
1 teaspoon Lemon EO
1/2 teaspoon Lemon or Orange Peel

Cure Longer!!!


Moisturizing Lavender Soap:
1 lb. Clear Soap Base
1 teaspoon Cocoa Butter   
1 teaspoon ground  Lavender Flowers
1/2 teaspoon Lavender EO


Vanilla Orange:

2 cups Opaque Soap Base
1 tablespoon Vanilla FO

1 cup Clear Soap Base
1/2 teaspoon Sweet Orange EO


Wild Honeysuckle and Honey:
1 cup Opaque Soap Base
1/2 tablespoon Wild Honesuckle FO

1 cup Clear Soap Base
2 tablespoons Honey


Wild Honeysuckle/ Honey/Milk:
Add 2 tablespoons of Powdered Milk to
Wild Honeysuckle and Honey Recipe


(English) Rose/ Honeysuckle:
3 cups Soap Base
2 tablespoons English Rose FO
1/2 tablespoon of Honeysuckle FO
        
Calamine Soap:
2 cups Soap Base
4 tablespoons Calamine Lotion
2 tablespoon French White Clay
1 teaspoon of Lavender EO


Citrus & Calendula Soap:
2 cups Soap Base
1/4 cup Calendula Petals
1/2 tsp. Grapefruit EO
1/4 tsp. Tangerine  EO
1/4 tsp. Lemon EO
1  tablespoon Shea Butter


Calendula/Lavender/Oatmeal:
2 cups Opaque Soap Base
1/2 cup Powdered Oatmeal
1 tablespoon Powdered Calendula
and Lavender Flowers
1 teaspoon Lavender EO


Chamomile Oatmeal Soap:
2 cups Opaque Soap Base
1 teaspoon Sweet Almond Oil   
1 teaspoon Citrus EO
1 teaspoon Powdered Oatmeal
1 teaspoon Powdered Chamomile Flowers


Cranberry Orange:
2 cups Soap Base
1/2 tablespoon of Cranberry FO
1/2 teaspoon Orange EO

Earth Clay Soap:
2 cups Soap Base
1 T. Clay
2 T. Jojoba Oil
1 tablespoon Fressia EO

My Favorite Combinations

Vanilla can discolor soap. A Color Stabilizer must be used to prevent discoloration. Make sure to check with the manufacturer. Otherwise, your soap may turn brown.

Fragrances That Contain Vanilla

Soap Combinations

   

There are many things that can be added to soaps. Some of the additives are commercially obtained, but this doesn't mean that you can't just get something from your cupboard.

For example, if I decide to make a soap to look like and smell like a strawberry cupcake, then I would use a pinch of poppy seeds to give the impression of strawberries. I would also whip up an opague soap to look like frosting.

Remember that your imagination is what determines what you can do --I consider soapmaking an art form. So be creative!!

Beeswax can be added to soap formulas to make the bar harder.

Dyes:

Neon Concentrate dyes will not migrate or bleed in MP soap base, and work equally well in clear or white soap. Shake well before using. Neon and Liquid Shocker Concentrates clear soap will become slightly cloudy and there may be a small amount of natural sediment (this is in all natural product). These colors do not migrate when embedded in soap. Heat the bottle in the microwave for 5 seconds if you have trouble mixing the color (first remove the foil cap liner from the bottle).

Opague Concentrate dyes are best used with clear bases. Each color is pastel--ldue to the white undertone.

Pigment Concentrate dyes are made from all natural ingredients. They do not migrate or "bleed" when layered and tend to look more natural than other colors.

Sparkle Concentrate dyes give your soap a luster appearance, much like the colors in frosted lipstick. These colors are really intended for clear soap (they tend to get lost in opaque bases). Some of these colors migrate in soap, while others do not.

Natural Dyes:

The first synethic dye was developed by an English Chemist by the name of William Henry Perkins in 1856. This discovery replaced all natural dyes that were used in the textile industry by 1915. Between the 1920s and 1970s a renewed interest in natural dyes was ignited by crafters and artists.

Here is a small list for using nature for dyes:

Calendula flowers will produce shades of yellow, olive green and brown.

Elderberry berries will produce pinks, violet and blue-gray. The leaves will produce pale green, gold and olive green.

Eucalyptus bark will produce reddish-brown, tan and gray. The dried leaves will produce soft orange, brown and yellow-green. Fresh leaves will produce orange and red.

Henna leaves will produce shades of brown.

Indigo leaves will produce shades of blue.

Nettle tops will produce yellow, yellow-green, gray-green and gold.

Onion skins will produce yellow, orange, brown and olive green.

St. John's wort tops will produce yellow, tan and brown. The flowers will produce olive, red and yellow.

Turmeric roots will produce gold, yellow, orange, dark olive green, and brown.

Yarrow tops will produce yellow, yellow-green and olive.

Herbs:

Calendula soothes rough, dry skin, and is gentle enough for babies.

Chamomile refeshs and softens skin. It is for light complexions.

Comfrey rejuvenates skin cells.

Echinacea has antibiotics properties and is good as an acne soap.

Elderberry helps soften age lines.

Lavender is good for oily skin. It is a natural antiseptic and is very relaxing.

Lemon Verbena just smell great when combined with lemon balm and lemongrass.

Mint leaves are good for oily skin and acne. It has antibacterial properties and has an uplifting effect.

Oats are healing and soften the skin. It also makes soap cure faster.

Plantain helps heal skin problems; such as sores and wounds.

Rosemary softens and conditions the skin. It is best used for darker complexions.

Thyme is good for oily skin and can be used in acne soap.

Oils and Butters:

Essential Oils-Use no more than 1 teaspoon per pound of soap.

Fragrance Oils-Use no more than 1 tablespoon per pound of soap.
Fragrances that contain vanilla can discolor Soap (and more fragrances contain vanilla than you might expect). A color stabilizer must be used to prevent discoloration. Use one tablespoon per pound of soap.

Sweet Almond Oil is moisturizing and soothing. It makes a smooth satin stable lather. It is nutrient-rich and is suitable for all skin types. Some people are allergic to almond.

Apricot Kernel Oil is an emollient oil, it is good for premature aging skin, dry and sensitive skin. It is highly moisturizing, and gives stable lather when used in making soap. It is good for all skin types.

Avocado Oil is a rich, nourishing oil. It absorbs into the skin and scalp easily and is high in vitamin A & E.It is good for dry and damaged skin and is known to help with eczema and psoriases.

Calendula Oil is made by infusing calendula petals in a good carrier oil like olive or sweet almond. Historically it is known for healing wounds, dry and damaged skin and for eczema and soothing skin eruptions. Is very mild and can be used in baby soaps. Good for all skin types.

Canola Oil (also known as rapeseed oil) is often used in place of olive oil in soap formulas. It is not as good as olive oil but it is cheaper.

Castor Oil is often used to enhance lather of soap. Only small amounts are used, since it can make soap soft.

Cocoa Butter makes soaps harder and add emollients. It has a natural chocolate smell. It has wonderful skin softening and moisturizing properties. Good for normal to dry skin.

Coconut Oil enhances soap lather and is good for the skin. Do not buy product that says "derived from Coconut oil" this is the synthetic foam booster "sodium lauryl sulfate" that has been linked to many skin allergies.

Carrot Root Oil is an essential oil. It is high in vitamin A and beta-carotene and is  healing to dry and mature skin.

Emu Oil should be only with essential oils and herbs since it enhances them. This oil is said to help sore muscles, aching joints, pain and inflammation. It helps rejuvenate skin cells and reduces scarring. It is good for helping eczema and psoriasis, and it is good for all skin types.

Evening Primrose Oil contains GLA (gamma-linoleic acid). It blends well with other carrier oils, is mildly astringent and it is used as a treatment for dry, flaky skin and skin prone to eczema, psoriasis, etc.

Grapeseed Oil has emollient properties. It is a light, penetrating oil and it good for all skin types.

Hemp Seed Oil is a source of essential fatty acids, high in minerals and vitamin A.

Jojoba Oil is really a liquid wax. It is said to be closely related to human sebum and this makes it very compatible with our skin. It can be used for acne and pimples and for dry and damaged skin. It is also a fixitive for the scenting oils.

Kokum Butter is from the root of the Garcinia indica tree grown in India. It is similar to shea butter.

Lard (pork fat) make soap hard. Good to use when using vegetable oils that have a tendency to make a softer soap.

Mango Butter is made from the fruit seed of the mango tree grown in the sub-tropics. It is slightly more solid than shea butter but gives the same characteristics to soap.

Neem Oil is known for for helping skin problems like eczema, psoriasis, and dry skin.

Olive Oil is what Castile soap is made from. It is healing and moisturizing to the skin. It makes dense tiny lather when used alone, but you can add a bit of castor oil to make larger and longer lasting bubbles.

Palm Kernel Oil or Flakes can be used instead of Coconut Oil. It seems to be more gentle to the skin, without causing dryness.

Palm Oil can be used instead of lard or tallow for making a totally Veggie soap. Its properties are similar to Coconut oil and makes an mild soap.

Peanut Oil is an emollient and is food for all dry skin types.

Pomace Olive Oil is extracted from the residues (from previous pressings), skins and pits (pomace) of olives. The final bar of 100% pomace tends to be somewhat softer than those made from virgin or midgrade olive oil.

Sesame Seed Oil is said to be good for psoriasis, eczema, rheumatism, and arthritis.

Shea Butter is expressed from the pits of the fruit of the African butter tree, and it is extremely moisturizing. Unrefined Shea Butter (also known as karite butter) is more penetrating than the refined, because it has not been chemically treated and stripped of its vitamin and nutritious values.

Shortening (Vegetable) is made of hydrogenated soybean oil and is an inexpensive way to add hardness to soap. It is mild and has a stable lather.

St. Johns Wort is infused into a carrier oil such as olive or sweet almond. It is used for muscular pain and to help relieve nervous skin rashes. It is an anti-inflammatory oil that is soothing and helpful to wounds.

Sunflower Oil is an emollient oil extracted from sunflower seeds. It is rich in essential fatty acids, but has a short shelf life. Good for all skin types.

Tallow (Beef) like lard was used as a main base in soapmaking before vegetable oils were introduced into soapmaking. Suet is the hard fat from around the beef kidneys. Suet is the highest quality tallow. Makes a hard white bar and is a good additive to liquid vegetable oils.

Turkey Red Oil is sulfonated castor oil. It has been processed so it mixes with water more easily. It is not recommended for soapmaking.

Walnut Oil is extracted from walnuts, and has soothing and moisturizing qualities. Good for all dry skin types.

Wheat germ Oil has a strong odor. It is rich in vitamin E, (a natural antioxidant), a natural preservative and has a long shelf life.

Liquid Glycerin is added 1 tablespoon to 1 cup of soap to increase suds.

Micas give your products a sparkle. For the best effect, the base product should be clear (not opaque soap). Mix with a small amount of base product to eliminate clumps, and then add this mixture to your entire batch. When adding mica to glycerin soap, mix in a tablespoon of water first, then add to the melted soap.

References:

Culinary Herb Goes Dye Crazy by Susan M. Strawn; The Herb Companion September 2004

Melt and Pour Soapmaking by Marie Browning

Soapmaking for the First Time by Linda Orton

Suds Up Your Harvest by Marguerite King; The Herb Companion September 2004

Transparent Soapmaking by Catherine Failor
  

Additives

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